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Friday, December 16, 2011

Gateway to India Lunch Buffet

This one was a no-brainer for Our Protagonist; some of the best, tasty entrees and side dishes from Gateway's dinner menu all lined up in attractive copper kettles in an all-you-can-eat buffet!  The price is ridiculous, too, as three people can eat for around 25 bucks.  Rather than give you a listing of every dish that was sampled (because every dish WAS sampled), here are the memorable moments.  A plate of naan baked in the tandoori oven is brought to your table, and salad and a few condiments (the very liquidy tamarind chutney, more sauce than chutney, and creamy raita) were on a side table next to the Lineup.  From this Our Protagonist highly recommends the tandoori chicken, perhaps a bit dry, but excellently spiced.  Today's Masala was mushroom; nice.  This was probably the best of the vegetarian offerings, but the Aloo was tasty, too.  Clearly there is a rotation of treatments and the main ingredients, but these two would most likely be best bets in any form.  Chicken Tikka Masala is one of the things to look for on the dinner menu, so if it shows up on the buffet line, you won't be disappointed.  The best was saved for last, though, the Fish Korma.  This sauce of yogurt and cashew paste is simply incredible; fish could only hope to be so well dressed.  The dessert of the day was a surprising carrot pudding.  Our Protagonist's dining partner was very impressed with this, and this led to the desire to explore more desserts, namely, the homemade mango ice cream.  It had been made in a small terrine, evidently, as it was sliced in small rectangular blocks.  It's best trait is that it actually tasted like mango, and not too syrupy-sweet with unnecessary added sugar.  The perfect ender!  Definitely try to find your way in here for lunch.  The best part?  Since it's buffet, you don't have to worry about the service slowing you down!  Just get your check as soon as you sit down and then enjoy the flavors.

Gateway to India
1960 Hillview St
Sarasota, FL 34239

941-364-4777 

Monday, October 31, 2011

Voocaray (Gulf Gate) [CLOSED]

Fried Green Tomatoes
Okra Bites
Jambalaya (shrimp, andouille, chicken, cajun spices)
Crawfish Creole (tomato, garlic, mushroom, creole seasoning)
Voocaray Beans and Rice (shrimp, fried eggplant)
Chocolate Beignets
Beignet Bread Pudding (blackberry brandy caramel sauce)

Amongst the charming collection of shops along Gulf Gate and Gateway sits Voocaray, one of the very few Cajun/Creole eateries in Sarasota.  Being just two doors down from Our Protagonist's friends at Transatlantic Sausage Company (and Bakery!) made it a nice twofer for the evening.  In fact, the Bakery supplies the Po-Boy New Orleans-style baguettes.  However, there were more pressing menu choices to be made on this particular evening. 

When in Rome (or the South), one must do as the locals do, which here means order the Fried Green Tomatoes.  This turned out to be an excellent axiom to follow, as Our Protagonist experienced what he would define as the Best Fried Green Tomatoes, Ever.  It was half Mother Nature, half technique; they had a perfectly thin breading, and the tomatoes were simply delicious to start with.   The Okra bites were nearly equally addictive, and the remoulade made for a good, tangy dipping sauce.  The Jambalaya very hot from the steaming chicken, and wasn't so much of a stew as a nicely-moist one-pot; a perfectly acceptable version of the classic.  The Crawfish Creole, which was the recommendation from the server, was hearty, featuring a great, chunky vegetable sauce.  It was, indeed, refreshing, to not be subjected to weighty sauces that usually plague Cajun and Creole dishes. Our Protagonist's dining partners had Red beans with Shrimp, and with Fried Eggplant, respectively.  The eggplant version looked almost other-worldly with long, thin cacti leaves of sliced eggplant sprouting up and out of the beans and rice.  A cute presentation, and since none of the other dishes had been subjected to this treatment this was simply fun rather than an annoying running joke.  The Chocolate Beignets were long cylinders, an unexpected direction in the shape from the Cafe du Monde version.  Think more like churros and you would be close.  To close the deal, the Beignet Bread Pudding was satisfyingly soft, and the blackberry brandy caramel had nice tang.  Our Protagonist only hopes that the mostly empty dining room isn't a bad omen for the future; it would be a pity for this to be overlooked in the sea of far-too-average dining choices that run the length of Tamiami Trail. 

Voocaray Cajun Cuisine and Bar
6566 Gateway Ave
Sarasota, FL 34231
941-926-2266  

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Ortygia (Bradenton)

Antipasto Ultimo: Torta di Carciofi, Torta Rustica, Portobello Ripieno, Peperone Ripieno, Pate di Pollo con Pistachio, Pate delle due Sicilie, Bruschetta con Caponata
Farsumagru
Amberjack Special
Dessert Sampler: Lemon Parfait, Chocolate Pate, Citrus Baklava

In preparation for this rare jaunt to Bradenton and Ortygia Restaurant, Our Protagonist poured over the online menu, made a strategy, and then browbeat his dining companions (four all told, this time) to go along with his selections for maximum menu coverage.  Hence, the Antipasto Ultimo; an extensive but so-worth-the-price sampler of the best antipasti that Ortygia has to offer.  The Torta di Carciofi was described as "Artichoke, Caramelized Onions, and a 'touch of sweetness.'"  The other torte consisted of ricotta with provolone and Reggiano Parmesan on a layer of prosciutto.  To be honest they both had a wonderful "touch of sweetness"; the edge went slightly to the Artichoke version, because those caramelized onions just had such a wonderful flavor, but that's only if one really has to choose.  Get both and stage your own debate.  The Portobello Ripieno featured a portobello stuffed with sweet Italian sausage, Gorgonzola, spinach, and marsala.  Yes, it was as good as it sounds.  It's "ripieno-ed" companion was a sweet red pepper stuffed with provolone, Reggiano, tomato, pine nuts, red currants; the ingredients list alone is making Our Protagonist hungry again.  It was a push which was better; it simply comes down to if you're more of a pepper person or mushroom.  Then came the two pates (did we mention we're still only on the appetizer?); the first, chicken, basil, caramelized garlic done "country style" with pistachios was very tasty.  But here Our Protagonist will happily plant his flag; the "Two Sicilies" pate, a "Classic Monzu mushroom pate" with capers, olives and dry marsala was not just a dramatic chestnut brown, but the fascinating earth tones of the dish made one sorry there wasn't more.  The final antipasto offering was the Bruschetta con Caponata, which featured sweet and sour eggplant, a Mediterranean vegetable medley, salted capers, celery, and olives, and was served with Italian pesto crisps.  Wow.  On second, no, third thought, don't make any decisions; just order this for table and slowly work through the myriad flavors.  This is experiential food which you can't find other places; this is why one diets; so they can not feel guilty about indulging in such wonderful pleasures as this kind of meal. 

Our Protagonist went with the Farsumagru as his main course upon recommendation from Gaetano, the chef/owner.  Sirloin stuffed with prosciutto, provolone, sweet sausage, egg, asparagus, and pancetta, and braised in red wine and tomato was yet another hearty combination of flavors.  One could quickly become addicted to this style of cooking!  The Amberjack special of the evening, which some of the dining companions chose featured caramelized fennel as the accompaniment, which is one of Gaetano's specialties in terms of treatment.  One should always try to find something with fennel to get the full sense of the Chef's talents.  For dessert, since everyone was in a sampling mood, naturally, the dessert sampler was chosen.  Everything was just as it should be; the Lemon Parfait was perfectly light, the Pate was perfectly rich in its chocolaty-ness, and the Citrus Baklava was a yet another eye-opening flavor combination and "riff" on the Mediterranean staple.  Our Protagonist is exhausted just going back over all of these foods, but would not be sorry to see any of them on his plate again.  And some just might be obsession-worthy, even. 

Ortygia Resturant
1418 13th Street West
Bradenton, FL 34205-7239
941-741-8646

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Euphemia Haye

Brown Walnut Bread
Snails Leslie
Pistachio crusted Red Snapper with lime-jalapeno buerre blanc
creamed spinach
Duck Breast in Framboise Sauce with Stella Artois Fennel
Peanut Butter Mousse Pie
Chocolate Ganache Cake
Pecan Pie a la mode (Buttered Pecan Ice Cream)

Euphemia Haye, having the reputation of "Best Restaurant on Longboat Key", is a a place in which Our Protagonist expected to see the da rigeur items of a classic American restaurant.  What was nice is there were a some nods to French cooking as well that amped up the expectations, especially when they arrived at table.  The Snails Leslie was such a dish; the snails melded in with rich sauce of garlic and mushrooms quite nicely; the earth tones all complementing one another, and yet remaining just individual enough for one to savor their favorite taste of the trio.  Even the sauce was poured out and consumed.  The accompaniment of an unnamed brown walnut bread had just the right amount of sweetness to take the edge off the garlicky sauce, and quickly became an addiction all to itself.  The Snapper had a good flavor; the tang of lime and jalapeno's zing nicely offsetting the pistachio crunch and the succulent fish.  Creamed spinach was fine; here was your neon-sign reminder that this is an "American" establishment, but it was nothing particularly remarkable.  The Duck Breast foisted onto Our Protagonist's plate by one of the dining companions was very tender, and the Framboise sauce was remarkable.  Then came the sojourn upstairs to the Loft to gander at all of the desserts.  The Peanut Butter Mousse Pie, for its mile-highness, was surprisingly light.  The Chocolate Ganache Cake was as dense and intense as the peanut butter was light, and Our Protagonist's choice, the Pecan Pie, was an extremely favorable rendition of an old favorite, laced with just a touch of bourbon without being overdone.  The accompaniment of buttered pecan ice cream requested by Our Protagonist, naturally, gilded the lily, but one only lives once.   But then one hopes to live again, if for nothing else but to visit the Loft once more...

Euphemia Haye
5540 Gulf of Mexico Drive
Longboat Key, FL 34228
941-383-3633

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Lucia's Italian Grill

Shrimp campagna
Mussels fra diavolo
Cheese Pizza
Creme Brulee Cheesecake

Lucia was a place Our Protagonist was hardly aware of, but after finding out it was in the rich culinary Hillview district, he was very much game to give it a try.  The Shrimp Campagna, shrimp sauteed with garlic, prosciutto, and diced tomatoes served over white Tuscan beans, could have been a meal unto itself; the marriage of flavors was outstanding and promised a very lovely evening.  After the last 'fra diavolo' debacle at Caragiulo's Our Protagonist was both filled with trepidation as well as a desire to wipe the memory from his mind.  His fears were immediately allayed, as the mussels were quite nicely 'diavolo' for a change, thank you very much.  The red sauce was both spicy and zesty; just plain great tasting.  His dining partners enjoyed their cheese pizza; the crust was a major improvement on the burnt travesty that was the previous experience at Primo.  Then came time for dessert; after getting a recommendation from the server for a chocolate cake that had been shipped in from Texas(!), she admitted that the best thing that she, herself, made, was the Creme Brulee Cheesecake.  Our Protagonist will go with the local over the mail ordered anytime there's a viable choice, and this was truly a watershed moment; the cheesecake actually tasted like a true creme Anglaise.  You could even see the vanilla beans.  It seemed inconceivable that the server had tried to encourage the table to order a different dessert, especially considering that it was her own creation.  After raving about it for a time both at the table and then to the server, directly, she poured salt on the wound by refusing to give out the recipe, claiming "family secret" status.  The horrible tease!  Our Protagonist still is fuming about this final insult, but at the same time is plotting how and when he will get back to have this magnificent creation again.  Where was that email address for Bon Appetit's RSVP column...?

Lucia's Italian Grill
1812 South Osprey Ave
Sarasota, FL 34239
941-954-5400

Thursday, October 20, 2011

Savory Street

Quiche wih red peppers, broccoli, and mushrooms, side of fruit
Creative Crater: France (eggs with ham, brie, and bacon)

Savory Street, located in the quaint Citrus Square, had been beckoning Our Protagonist for some time, and on this particular morning, he had time to answer that call along with a dining companion for breakfast.  The draw, here, is that all the bakery goods are made in-house, something that is on the rise, but still not too common an occurrence.  The special that morning, the Quiche with Red Peppers, Broccoli, and Mushrooms, needed to be sampled to verify the claims to baking excellence.  Sad to say, Our Protagonist found it fine, average really, in terms of the crust.  Or, what was that term he heard first to describe Key Lime Pie in one establishment?  Oh, yes, "Serviceable."  The filling, too, screamed nonchalance, not at all the breakfast aspired to by these noble ingredients.  One must note that each into themselves have mild flavors, so spices should have been added to the mix to boost the zestiness.  The Creative Crater, eaten by the dining partner, was very cute; sort of an artisan baker's take on toad-in-the-hole.  Of course, one can't go wrong with ham, brie, and bacon, and the bread did get a good nod from the partaker.  The best thing going for Savory Street is that they have lovely presentation; the fruit accompaniment was arranged lovingly on the plates, almost to the point of making one feel guilty for disturbing the sculpture.   Now if only their dishes can rise to the level of their presentation, we'll really have something here.

The Savory Street
411 N Orange Avenue
Sarasota, FL 34236
941-312-4027

Sunday, October 9, 2011

Selva Grill Return

Triologia
Mirin Roasted Sea Bass
Skirt Steak over Sweet Plantains, beet relish, chimichurri
Tres Leches Cake

Our Protagonist looked forward to his Selva Grill repeat; a not all-too-common experience, sadly.  Not wanting to completely diverge from his pleasant experience previously, he requested another round of the Triologia Ceviche, with one exception; since only the white fish came with the wonderful aji amarillo, he swapped out the portion of tuna in ginger and got a double portion of white fish and then the single of the Maya Shrimp.  The white fish ceviche is so good they really should offer it by itself on the menu, which is a remarkable statement coming from someone who isn't exactly an aficionado of white fish.  So the Triologia was more like a Duologia, but one can't go wrong with this sampler.  Here's hoping the management will explore other sampling pairs and trios in the future...

On to the entrees; in honor of his mother, Our Protagonist opted for her go-to dish, the Sea Bass (which also held the seafood theme).  The main attraction, though was that corn custard flan accompaniment as well as the bok choy and a desire to see where the chef would go with his black bean sauce.  It was all remembered fondly; it only ended too quickly with the good company that was shared, but that is hardly the fault of the restaurant.  Speaking of the company, his dining companion went with the Skirt Steak again, which is interesting in that this was a different, not to mention far more attractive partner than last time, which would be fully acknowledged by the previous dining companion.  Or at least should be.  At any rate the Skirt Steak worked its magic similarly, and a plantain was stolen along the way to savor.  Our Protagonist craves to learn how to make these at home; they come out such a nice red-orange color and taste just perfect in their caramelized softness.

For dessert, they turned to an old classic that IS something our Protagonist makes at home, the Tres Leches cake.  Not unlike Key Lime Pie in terms of ubiquitousness, Tres Leches now finds its way on nearly every Latin restaurant's menu, with differing levels of execution.  [As a sidebar; don't ever order another Key Lime Pie again if you haven't found your absolute to-die-for favorite.  Just get a pint of Ciao Bella Key Lime Graham Gelato, and then you will have discovered that missing slice of heaven.  Don't care for the graham swirl?  Then get a pint of GaGa Key Lime SherBetter; equally valid, just not Key Lime "Pie", exactly.  End sidebar.]  How was this execution, you ask?  Not quite as good as Our Protagonist's version, spiked with rompope, a Mexican eggnog liqueur, but it was close.  That will have to constitute as high praise in this instance, and the Gentle Reader will have to accept it as such.  As a passing note, Our Protagonist did miss the extent of the "art" to which the plates had been painted with their sauces, previously.  This, sadly, seems to have been toned down a bit, but really was one of the experiential joys of Selva Grill.  I hope the management will not leave this aspect behind, because the smells and tastes really deserve the beauty that was put into the presentation, previously; it really does all go together.  Otherwise, OlĂ©, Selva!

Selva Grill
1345 Main Street
Sarasota, FL 34236
941-362-4427